This is a blog about music, photography, history, and culture.
These are photographs from my collection that tell a story about lost time and forgotten music.

Mike Brubaker
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Showing posts with label ladies. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ladies. Show all posts

Have a Seat, Ladies.

26 September 2026

 
"If you please, Miss, you may sit
here at the chaise longue
for your photograph."

"Thank you, I do feel a bit weak at the knees."






"Now if the young lady
will arrange herself at this chair,
I will adjust the camera."

"How's this?"






"Many of our young patrons
find this a very handsome chair
to sit for their portrait."

"Well, it is quite pretty,
but I'd really like my instrument
to get the attention." 






"Our studio offers several choices in chairs, Fräulein.
Which would you prefer?"


"I think this one will do nicely.
There's something about its shape I like."





Skilled photographers know that the key
to a fine portrait is getting their subject
comfortably settled and relaxed
to capture the best of their personality. 
For a musician though,
including their instrument in the picture
requires extra attention
to balance lighting and focus.
When it's done right
the effect can be magical.

Today I present
four elegant cabinet portraits of young women
posed with their musical instrument.

Each one an example of beauty
and camera artistry.


 







My first musician is a clarinetist posed at one end of an fine upholstered chair or settee. She leans over it with her instrument while dreamily gazing upwards to her left. She wears a white formal gown with puffy shoulders and short sleeves. 

Her cabinet photograph was taken by the Putnam Studio of 462 Broadway in Chelsea, Massachusetts, north across the Mystic River from Boston. Putnam was noted for producing many portraits for Boston's society people. On the back is a wonderful dedication from the young woman. 



With best wishes
L Lillian Lutz
Jan 30, 1899
42 Cunard St.
Roxbury  Mass.

Lillian's address on Cunard St in Roxbury is on the south side of Boston, not far from Boston's Museum of Fine Arts and Northeastern University. Her name appears in the 1880 U.S. Census for Charlestown, Massachusetts with her father, Philip Lutz, and mother, Ellen E. Lutz, showing she was born Lena Lillian Lusk on 1 November 1876. That would make her age 22 in this photo. 

Unfortunately, like many Americans born in this era, Lillian's life spans the terrible 20 year gap between the 1880 and 1900 census records caused by a terrible fire in January 1921 at the U.S. Department of Commerce building in Washington, DC. Consequently there are few records from those decades of Lillian's family. The only thing I could find from the 1890s was her mother, Ellen Lutz, listed as "widow of Philip" in the 1899 Charlestown city directory.


Boston, MA Globe
21 January 1899

Her father Philip Lutz worked as a "baker", though not necessarily operating his own bakery. Sadly I found his death notice in the Boston Globe reporting that he died at home on 19 January 1899, just a week before Lillian signed her portrait. This may explain her choice of pose and wistful expression.    

A few years later Lena Lillian Lutz found her way to California, possibly as a member of a Boston Ladies' Orchestra on tour in San Francisco. In January 1904 she married Gerald Groesbeck of New York in Oakland, California with who she had four children. She died in Connecticut in 1973 at age 96.  



* * *




My second musician is another female clarinetist who chose to perch on the arm of an elegant renaissance chair. She wears a formal white dress, too, but in a more demure style without inflated shoulders. She also wear rimless glasses which, while not uncommon in this era, presented the photographer with a lighting challenge to avoid unwanted reflections. 

That photographer was Purdy Studio of 146 Tremont Street in Boston, Massachusetts at "The Richmond" block, which is opposite the historic Boston Commons park. It was a favorite studio for Boston's elite to have a fine portrait taken as well as a production shop that supplied entertainers, politicians, and celebrities with multiple photo prints for promotional and commercial use. On the back this young woman signed and dated her photo.



Oct. 15, 1903
"Feathers"
Clara Akeroyd
 

Clara Beatrice Akeroyd was born in Boston in 1880, the daughter of Evans and Mary Akeroyd. In the 1880 census Evans, age 22, was a professional musician and he and his family were living with his older brother Vincent Akeroyd, age 31, who was also a professional musician. Both were immigrants from England who found lots of musical work playing in bands and orchestras in Boston's thriving theater district. 

However finding Clara's name in the 1880 census at age 5/12 uncovered an unexpected genealogy puzzle. Her uncle Vincent Akeroyd and his wife, Mary E., also had a daughter, age 2, named Clarinda Beatrice Akeroyd. So which Clara was my clarinetist? 

Using clues from newspapers reports and family trees on Ancestry.com I found that in December 1905, a Clara B. Akeroyd  married Joseph H. Saltsman, an attorney, and that they settled in Cleveland, Ohio. But that wasn't a full confirmation. Her cousin, Clarinda B. Akeroyd, seems to have never married, worked as a nurse in WW1 and made it a career serving in the British Red Cross. She lived a long life reaching age 81 on her death in January 1961. But for all I know, Clarinda once played a clarinet, too. 

  

Cleveland, OH Plain Dealer
24 March 1909

Clara B. Saltsman died in March 1909 and Boston newspapers ran notices that her memorial service would be held at the home of her father, Evans Akeroyd. She was survived by her husband and a son. But it was not enough to confirm which Clara is in my photo. Then I found a very small notice of her death in a Cleveland newspaper.

Wife of Lawyer Dies.
    Mrs. Clara B. Saltsman, wife of J. H. Saltsman, attorney, with offices in the Beckman building, died at her home, 3193 W. 25th st., shortly after 7 o'clock last night, after a brief illness. Mrs. Saltsman was formerly a member of the Boston symphony orchestra. 

Evans Akeroyd was a talented clarinet player whose name appears in many reports of band and orchestra concerts in the Boston area from 1880 to his death in 1920. His brother Vincent played violin, viola (even naming one daughter Viola Akeroyd), and altohorn, and also taught music at his home. But Evans seemed to concentrate only on clarinet, and may have played in the Boston Symphony Orchestra, too, perhaps as a sub or extra.

However, I think this simple addition to Clara's report refers to her work in one of Boston's women's orchestras, of which there were several professional groups that played in the Boston area and toured the country. They were not so large as full symphony orchestra but they did perform regularly as professionals.  


[On a side note, Clara Akeroyd's clarinet is unusually long. The common versions of clarinets are the short E-flat, the standard length B-flat, and the slightly longer A clarinet used in orchestras. Clara's is about 2 inches longer, possibly in the unusual key of G. I checked with my clarinet colleagues in my orchestra who confirmed it is too long and not an instrument design that is familiar to them. It might be a basset clarinet, an instrument for which Mozart composed his Clarinet Quintet in A major, K.581 and Clarinet Concerto in A Major, K.622. In any case, I think it is the kind of rare instrument that only a professional clarinetist like Evans Akeroyd might own. And one he would give to his favorite student to play.]




* * *







My third musician is a cornet player casually seated on the corner of a rattan chair. She too wears a white gown with larger puffy shoulders and short elbow-length sleaves. Her face also has that faraway gaze with a hint of a shy smile.    

She left her name and, curiously, her family relationship on the front. 

Your Daughter    Anna

Her full name was Anna K. Burroughs and she was from Marysville, Kansas where she was born in 1870. I have found Anna in a photo of a Boston ladies' orchestras that toured the Midwest in 1898. The photo included a roster of its members so that is how I learned her surname. Anna had previously played as cornet soloist of a celebrated Kansas ladies' military band in Kansas, starting in 1889 at age 19. 

Her cabinet photo was taken by Burkholder & Owens studio of Ashland, Ohio. Though she did not leave a date I believe it was taken in 1898-99 while on tour with this ensemble. I believe Anna Burroughs has a connection to several other portraits of female musicians in my collection, all with a connection to Boston, too, so I will reserve her full story for when I tell about this Boston women's orchestra. 




* * *





My last musician is a young violinist who sits relaxed in fine decorative rattan chair. Wearing a white shirtwaist with a high collar and a dark skirt she looks directly at us with a calm, confident air. Unfortunately she did not sign this photo so her name in unknown, as is the date of her sitting. My best guess is 1898-1900.

Her cabinet photo was taken at Rudolph's Studio at 957 Milwaukee Ave, in Chicago, Illinois. The owner of the studio was Louis Rudolph, and according to a reference I found online he operated his shop on Milwaukee Avenue from 1892 to 1900. Evidently he was rather proud of it as the back of this cabinet photo has a wonderful illustration of the building.




It looks rather narrow, perhaps situated between other larger buildings on the block. Just above the ornate top cornice is a curved nameplate with RUDOLPH and above the ground floor windows is Louis - Rudolph. Lettering on the upper widows advertiser his price for photos—12 cabinets and a life size crayon $4.75; Cabinets $2.00 per dozen; Children's pictures a specialty. At the entrance is an octagonal kiosk showing examples of his photo work. Sadly the building and address are no long visible in Chicago. But the quality photography that Mr. Rudolph created was preserved and gives us an appreciation for Chicago's musical culture.









This is my contribution to Sepia Saturday
where summer days can last as long as you like.



 

The R. S. C. Orchestra of Rogersville, Tennessee

12 September 2026

 
This is Cecile Justa Bidez
with her father Dr. Leon Aloys Bidez.
Cecile, age 17, played cello
(her bow is in motion)
and Dr. Bidez, age 50, played violin.
Both were college music teachers.






This is Eva Elsa Bidez
Dr. Bidez's eldest daughter.
She plays violin and
in this photo is age 24.
She was also a music teacher.






This is Hope Amy Bidez
Dr. Bidez's youngest daughter.
She is 15 years old
and plays cornet
.






Between them are the rest of their college orchestra,
1st Row (L — R) 
        Hattie McArthur,
                                                   Albert Price,
                                                                                        Miss L. Franklin,    
                                                                                                                                        Georgia Smith

 






2nd Row
        Jennie Mather,
                                        Mary Logan Caldwell,
                                                                            Helen Brown,
                                                                                                        Nell Divine,
                                                                                                                                 Mary Haverly
3rd Row
                Miss Loonet,
                                                "Bob" Caldwell,   alias, Auntie Dinah's darlint'.
                                                                                                Lulu Hale
                                                                                                                                Lida Merriman
4th Row
            Maude Haltenbeck
                                                                    Ruth Powell
                                                                                                            Will Graybill


They were all members
of the Rogersville Synodical College. 
And sometime around 1898 they posed outside
at the entrance of one of their college buildings.



This large format photograph shows a group of 19 musicians, all young women except for two young men, with their music director, Dr. Bidez. There are five violinists including Dr. Bidez; three mandolinists; three guitarists; four pianists, each holding a symbolic roll of music; two percussionists on snare drum and tambourine; a cellist; and one cornetist.  

I can confidently provide all their names because they were all neatly identified on the back of the photo.  




However figuring out the location was a challenge
because there is no imprint of a photographer
and the ensemble's name was just an abbreviation
written above the photo on the card mount.

R. S. C.  Orchestra


The name of the director was written as just "Dr. Bidez" but the surname proved to be unusual enough to be distinctive in archive searches, as did the names of his three daughters: Eva, Cecile, and Hope Bidez. I found all of them, except for Hope, in the 1900 U. S. Census for Rogersville, Tennessee. Listed on a single census page, with 50 lines for each individual, is the entire school population for that year—principals, teachers, and students for the Rogersville Synodical College.  

Leo A. Bidez, "Teacher of Music", was 52, born in August 1847 in Belgium to Belgian parents. He immigrated to the United States in 1876. His daughter Eve E. Bidez, also a "Teacher of Music", age 26, was born in April 1874 in Belgium. She immigrated a year later in 1877. Her younger sister Cecile J. Bidez, age 19, was born in March 1874 in North Carolina. Her occupation was also "Teacher of Music". Hope Bidez was not listed but I discovered her life facts later.

There were 30 students, all young women ranging from ages 13 to 22, averaging to 17½ years. Most were from Tennessee or Kentucky, with a few from Virginia, South Carolina, Georgia, Ohio, and even one young lady from Nebraska. 

Besides the three Bidez music teachers, there were two teachers of Latin, and one each for Art, Elocution, and Primary, all single women. There were two principals, Nannie McVeigh, the "Lady Principal" and William M. Graybill, "Head principal". Only Graybill and Dr. Bidez were married but it seems Mrs. Bidez was not then a resident. Principal Graybill's youngest son, William M, Graybill, Jr., who is the guitarist seated right on the bottom row, is age 18 in the census. But I think in this photo he looks younger, more like age 16, so that is how I calculated the ages of the Bidez family members.     

Rogersville is located in the northeast corner of Tennessee in the rugged ridge and valley region west of the Appalachian Mountains. It's actually just 90 miles northwest of my home in Asheville, North Carolina. Rogersville has always been a small town despite being the county seat of Hawkins County, and it current population in 2020 is 4,671 residents. In 1900 it was much smaller with only 1,386 residents. But that was still large enough to have a school of higher learning.  

According to a 1893 report in Higher Education in Tennessee by Lucius Salisbury Merriam, Construction of the school began in 1849 after the Independent Order of Odd Fellows (IOOF) purchased a 66 acre parcel in Rogersville. In September of the following year it opened with 116 pupils as the Odd Fellows Female Seminary, which seems a strange oxymoron as the Odd Fellows were a non-sectarian and non-political fraternal men's society. In any case, the society was soon unable to afford the expense of operating a school and the property was sold to a joint stock company made up of members of Rogersville's Presbyterian churches. 

The school prospered before the Civil War but had difficulties afterward. In around 1880 it came under direction of the Presbyterian Synod of Nashville, Tennessee, which advanced its mission to become a female college in 1892. For the 1890-91 school year the college claimed 170 students and 13 teachers. It seems likely that the 1900 census record listed only those students living on campus and there were many more who lived in the town of Rogersville. 

In 1897 the Rogersville Synodical College engaged Dr. Brez and his two eldest daughters to teach music there. That summer Dr. Brez's name was included in newspaper advertisements for the college.


Chattanooga Daily Times
30 July 1897

    ROGERSVILLE SYNODICAL COLLEGE — The strong faculty, increased advantages, healthful location, beautiful college home and moderate rates continue to attract a large attendance of excellent young ladies to this old and honored institution.  The patrons of the school are pleased with the mental, social and moral culture of their daughters, and realize that they have at Rogersville the best advantages and kindest attention at very low rates.  Conservatory course of music with four teachers.  Director,  L. A. Bidez, LL. D., graduate of University of Brussels and Royal Conservatory, Germany.  Forty-eighth session begins Sept. 8, 1897.  For catalogue, address. 
                                                                                W. M. GRAYBILL, President, Rogersville, Tenn. 


I found Dr. Bidez in a family tree on Ancestry.com. His full name was Leon Aloys Henri Bidez which allowed for more name and initial combinations in search through newspaper reports on him. After his arrival in America he used Aloys Bidez fro several years. Then in the 1890s it was just L. A. Bidez, sometimes with the honorific Dr. or Prof.   
  
Compared to many music teachers of this era, Dr. Bidez earned an advanced  degree and studied with notable teachers in Belgium. According to a 1934 newspaper report on the Bidez family, Leon's father was fortunate to win a lottery exempting him from military service. Instead he got an education, entered the Belgian civil service, and eventually earned a promotion to a high office in the Belgian treasury. For this he was given a splendid jeweled sword from King Leopold II (which was the reason for this report.)   

When Leon was a young man he also won the same lottery exemption and used his freedom to study law and music. Evidently his musical talent won his heart as he became proficient on piano, organ, violin, and clarinet. In 1876 he came to America to take a position in one of New York's orchestra. Unfortunately an Atlantic storm lengthened his voyage and when he arrived the position had been filled. 

Charlotte, NC Observer
12 July 1878

After staying in New York for a short time, he arranged for his wife and two children to join him and moved to the Cleveland, Ohio area. In 1878 he was engaged as a music teacher by the Charlotte Institute for Young Ladies in North Carolina. Advertisements for the school promoted him as "a distinguished teacher of Vocal and Instrumental music, of Harmony, Through-base (sic) and Orchestration. and himself an author of a Text-book on Piano-Forte teaching." 

By 1881 the school had renamed itself as the Charlotte Female Institute and described its music department under Dr. Bidez as "unrivalled in the South for the thoroughness and high grades in culture."  The institute also took pride in its several "instructresses" of modern languages, mathematics and natural sciences, history, literature, and art. Today the institute is known as Queens University of Charlotte.

Savannah, GA Morning News
3 September 1887

Some time around 1885 Dr. Bidez and family moved to Rome, Georgia where he became a music teacher at a women's college there. This school was founded in 1873 as the Cherokee Baptist Female College by the pastor of Rome's Baptist Church. A few years later it became the Shorter Female College to acknowledge the financial contributions of Alfred and Martha Shorter. In the 1880s it adjusted its name to Shorter College, possibly to placate parents who considered their daughter's height to be average or even tall. This private Baptist school is now know as Shorter University. 

The Bidez family lived in Rome for only a few years when they left in 1889 for Lexington, Kentucky where Dr. Bidez was engaged as a music teacher at Hamilton College, another school for young women. It was established by a banker, James M. Hocker, in 1869 as the Hocker Female College. In 1878, like Shorter College, it changed its name to Hamilton College in honor of a generous benefactor. It was at this point Leon Aloys Bidez began using the initials Dr. L. A. Bidez in reports of his conducting concerts, playing church organ, and giving violin recitals with his daughters. This school closed in 1932, during the Great Depression, when the number of students declined.

Lexington, KY Herald Leader
23 July 1891

This job did not last very long at all and by the summer of 1891 the Bidez family uprooted themselves to be replanted in the great prairieland of Emporia, Kansas. A Lexington newspaper notice showed that they auctioned off a lot of fine household items before the move. In Emporia, Prof. L. A. Bidez taught music at the State Normal School. Newspaper reports cited his educational background and the talent of his two daughters on violin, mandolin, and piano. A Normal School was a common type of college for training teachers, primarily for women but also men. Evidently Bidez schedule was relatively light as he found time in 1892 to travel back to Brussels, Belgium to visit his parents. He sent a letter to the Emporia newspaper describing city life in Belgium in contrast to American cities. He considered America better.    

In the summer of 1897 Bidez returned to the east where he and his daughter's Eva and Cecile were hired by the Rogersville Synodical College. Later that fall he received the sad news of his father's death. He seems to have stayed in Rogersville through the winter as he conducted or performed several concerts. But I suspect he returned to Belgium sometime in the next year or two as his name came up several times in Tennessee newspapers until disappearing in 1900. The school must have been suffering financial difficulties as it canceled its 1903-04 school year. In 1916 the Synodical College closed though the school continued to provide grammar and high school classes. Over the next decade the college buildings were demolished and the property was bought by the city of Rogersville which turned it into a public school for preK to 8th grade. In 2023 it celebrated its 100th anniversary.   

In 1901 Dr. Bidez was in Maryland playing piano at the commencement exercises at Mount Saint Mary's College and Seminary, a Catholic college for men and now a co-ed university. Whether he was engaged as a music teacher there or at its companion school, Saint Joseph's Academy, a Catholic school for girls is unknown.

All I can tell from newspaper reports is that from 1902 the Bidez were now living in Emmitsburg, Maryland, just south of Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, where these two schools are considered the foundation for the Catholic parochial school system in the United States. One report on a June 1902 commencement at St. Joseph's Academy for Girls listed the names of Hope Bidez and Alix Bidez, the youngest sister, as playing violin and mandolin at the event. So perhaps this move was for advancing his daughter's education. As Emmitsburg is relatively close to Harrisburg, Washington, D. C., Baltimore, and Philadelphia this may have provided other cultural advantages for a musician like Dr. Bidez. 




However I suspect Dr. Bidez was developing health problems as sometime around 1905 he and his wife moved to Columbia, Tennessee, southwest of Nashville, to be close to one of his daughters who was now married. On 1 June 1909 Leon Aloys Henri Bidez died there after a lengthy illness. He was 61. He was survived by his wife, two sons, and four daughters. 



* * *

This story of Dr. Leon Aloys Bidez is not the one I expected to write about. After I properly identified him and his three daughters, placed them on the steps of a now forgotten school building in a tiny rural town, and figured out their narrow time frame of three years at the end of the 19th century, I might have ended it there. But I was intrigued by how a man from Belgium ended up in East Tennessee. He arrived in America in 1876 on the centennial year of our nation's founding. The Statue of Liberty would not grace New York's harbor for another decade. He clearly brought with him a special talent for music along with the skills to teach it. His background in what we now call classical music was not a sub-genre then. It was all the traditions of French, German, Italian operas, symphonies, and chamber music of Europe. He likely thought of it as the contemporary music of his time.

As a genuine professor, Dr. Bidez was in contrast to thousands of American musicians of the day who assumed that honorific, "Prof." just through their talent on an instrument, usually cornet, and their ambition to lead a band or orchestra. They had no educational credentials or degrees like Bidez. His knowledge of harmony, orchestration, and instrumental technique was the result of long study at a European conservatory, a type of music institution that was limited to only a few places in America.       
 
Bidez was also an example of a great cultural exchange in 19th century America when countless European musicians immigrated here to play in professional orchestras and bands. Perhaps he aspired to do exactly that, but circumstances in his life put him onto a different path as a music teacher. It helped that he had three talented daughters to inspire him.

When I began uncovering his career path I was surprised at the type of small academic institutions he found work. The development of small colleges in America, especially as railroad lines began linking town after town in the late 19th century was one of the important developments in the history of American public education. But we forget that in this era many schools of higher learning were restricted to men only. Yet Dr. Bidez found employment in schools for women, at a time when women were subject to many more civil restrictions and societal obstacles than they have in our 21st century. 

As I've outlined in this story, Dr. Bidez taught music at six different female institutions, possibly more. These schools promoted for young women a standard academic curriculum of Latin, elocution, literature, math, etc., but classes in music and art showcased a school's commitment to refined culture. I doubt that any mother and father expected to see their daughter become a successful concert pianist or opera singer. But they very likely believed such an arts education would provide their girl with better prospects in marriage.   

I came across the Rogersville Synodical College in an article found in a 1912 education journal entitled: The School Review, vol. 20, p. 458. Though the article was written over a decade after Dr. Bidez and his daughters taught there, the author was still describing the same college educational opportunities available to women in this era. Here is an excerpt from the beginning of the article: 


by Elizabeth Avery Colton 
Meredith College, Raleigh, North Carolina 

    There are in the South one hundred and forty-two colleges for women distributed as follows: in Maryland, seven; in Virginia, thirteen; in West Virginia, Florida, and Oklahoma, one each; in North Carolina, eighteen; in South Carolina, ten; in Georgia and Alabama, nine each; in Mississippi and Texas, fourteen each; in Louisiana, five; in Arkansas, two; in Missouri, eleven; in Kentucky, fifteen; and in Tennessee, twelve. North Carolina appears ignominiously to head the list; but an equally close-range searchlight might prove several other states guilty of an equally absurd number of nominal colleges. For three institutions in Kentucky and an additional twelve in Tennessee failed to respond to requests for catalogues. In fact, I am not absolutely sure that the above numbers are complete for any state except North Carolina. But as hardly a fifth of the institutions enumerated are giving any standard college courses, it is safe to assume that no institution doing any college work has been omitted.

    Only four of all the colleges for women in the South have been recognized by the Association of Colleges of the Southern States; and only six others are included by the Specialist in Higher Education in either his third or his fourth class. The remaining hundred and thirty-one southern colleges for women have never been classified according to any national or sectional standard. I have, therefore, attempted to formulate a basis of classification which might indicate, however inadequately, some distinction between institutions which are merely inferior secondary schools and those which are really doing more or less college work. With this object in view, I have during the past year compiled statistics showing the specific admission requirements announced in the catalogues of southern colleges for women; and with these statistics as a basis I have grouped all these institutions under the following heads:

    1. Institutions belonging to the Association of Colleges of the Southern States.

    2. Institutions offering from three to four years above standard collegeentrance requirements, but not conforming to the regulations of the Association of Colleges of the Southern States.

    3. Institutions counting two or more years of preparatory work toward a baccalaureate degree.

    4. Institutions counting from three to four years of preparatory work toward a baccalaureate degree.


Using these rules the author goes into detail, assigning only four colleges to the first group; thirty-four in the second group; forty-nine in the third; and fifty-five in the fourth group. Rogersville Synodical College and Hamilton College in Lexington were placed in this last group as examples of so-called "colleges" which actually only offered a secondary level education and did not deserve to be called a college. The author's main critique was that most Southern colleges for women did not follow accepted collegiate curriculums and failed to engage enough fully credentialed faculty. They also accepted younger girls who had not finished high school. Essentially what her research showed was that most of these institutions were really only preparatory or "finishing" schools that failed to deliver proper degrees in higher education.    

This next excerpt from this review of Southern colleges for women caught my attention because it directly comments on the use of music in these schools. 


    The tendency on the part of the southern girl to specialize before she has acquired even a good high-school education causes one of the leading distinctions between eastern and southern colleges for women. Of the 1,030 students now at Vassar, for example, only 100 are taking lessons in piano, voice, organ, and violin, combined; at Greensboro Female College, on the other hand, there were last year out of a total registration of 215 exactly 151 studying music. This proportion of music students-one-tenth at Vassar and nearly three-fourths at Greensboro-is, I find, typical of women's colleges in the East and in the South; and perhaps I should add that even the few who study music in eastern colleges are working primarily for an academic degree. This is not true of the majority of music students in southern colleges. Eastern colleges do not try to compete with conservatories, and they no more think of advertising their music departments than their departments of mathematics. A department of music is, of course, indispensable in a woman's college; but if an institution wishes to be recognized as a college, it is safer for it not to try to be "the leading conservatory of music in the South!"



We have to wonder if Dr. Bidez thought he was making a difference for the young women he taught in these colleges. Did he envision a world where women gained the right to vote, found careers in law, business, science, and even music? Did he dream that his daughters' talents might earn them a life on the concert stage or a position teaching at a conservatory? I suspect that like every good teacher he hoped his lessons would motivate a young person to become the very best they could be.










This is my contribution to Sepia Saturday
where it's ladies day all weekend.




Going Rococo

25 July 2026


Velvet coats with fancy embroidery.
Frilly shirts with lace on the collars.
And curly mops of hair. 

They're not
John, Paul, George, and Ringo.
But they were the first
to use hair for an artistic statement.






Some groups went for an extra long coiffure
with tresses heaped onto shoulders. 






Others took a more conservative approach
 with a restrained style suitable for all occasions.






And others wanted to appeal to the youths
by choosing matching curls
that would do any mother proud.



Today I present four musical groups
that copied fashion styles from centuries past
in order to set themselves apart.

Bad hair was good.








My first example was evidently the very first ensemble of its kind to affect a return to the olden days. These five men called themselves the Original Elite Orchester „Roccoco”, directed by Herr P. Schmeida. They were from Germany, or maybe Austria. and chose costumes imitating the apparel of gentlemen of the 18th century. Each one is slightly different but they all wear velvet knee breeches, justacorps coats embroidered with silks and gold sequins, contrasting long waistcoats, and white shirts with frilled collars and cuffs. All topped off by a curly white wig that to a modern eye resembles a mop head. Today I found a very similar outfit for sale on Etsy for $1,349.25. But that's without the wig.

The group is pictured without instruments but I suspect they played string instruments and perhaps included a piano. The term Rococo refers to a style of architecture, art, and decoration that dates roughly from the death of the French King Louis XIV in 1715 to the French Revolution of 1789. According to its Wikipedia entry, "It is characterized by extensive ornamentation, fluid curves, asymmetry, and a smaller scale designed to foster intimacy. .... Rococo fashion was based on extravagance, elegance, refinement and decoration. ... These fashions spread beyond the royal court into the salons and cafés of the ascendant bourgeoisie. The exuberant, playful, elegant style of decoration and design that we now call 'Rococo' was then known as le style rocaille, le style moderne, le gout."

The Rococo era was very influential in art and architecture, but other terms, were used for the music of this period. In France it was called Style Galant, described by Voltaire as music which “aims to please." French composers Jean Philippe Rameau, Louis-Claude Daquin and François Couperin were popular in this era. In Germany it was called Empfindsamer Stil (sensitive style) which inspired German composers like Johann Christian Bach and Carl Philip Emanuel Bach, both sons of the great titan of Baroque Music – Johann Sebastian Bach. 

This postcard of the Original Elite Orchester „Roccoco” has a stamp and postmark from Denmark on 23 January 1904.    





* * *




This next ensemble is considerably larger with twenty musicians posted outdoors in a garden or park setting. According to the postcard's caption they are: 

Madame H. E. Angless's Pompadour Ladies' Orchestra
permanent address:  78, Norwood Road, London, S. E.

The players in this all-women group are dressed in long, wide gowns, possibly with interior structural support, and heavy white wigs, most appearing to be identical in shape. They have the usual string instruments as well as a flute, two clarinets, trombone, tuba, and drums in the back row and two cornetists sitting on the grass in front. Though not identified as pretending to be from the Rococo era, their attire is pretty close.

The woman standing center, left of the harp, holding a baton is the conductor, Madame Harry Edward Angless, also known as Emily Angless (nee Leer). She had previously organized a Anglo-Swiss Ladies' Orchestra in the 1890s which performed in quasi-Swiss costumes. Though the Pompadour ladies are all beautifully matched in fancy French costume, I can't help but observe that several players have noticeably masculine faces. Maybe it's the light or the half-tone print, but the tuba player on the right, the double bassist on the left, and a few other musicians sure look like they could use a shave.   

This postcard was sent from London on 30 March 1905 to Mrs Beales of Horley, familiar to people of 2026 as being next to Gatwick airport.



"Oh, listen to the Band"
That is what we were
doing last Saturday.
Sorry you were not
there.  Hope you are
 quite well.                
AF.    HP.

I found only a few British newspaper references to the Pompadour Ladies Orchestra. The group seems to have started around 1904 and ended in 1908, mostly playing variety shows that included other acts like comedians, acrobats, and magicians. One of the places where they performed over a few seasons was at the Britannia Pier in Great Yarmouth on the North Sea coast. This next postcard shows a long pier that projects over a very sandy beach and an impressive palace at the end. It certainly looks suitable for a Rococo style ensemble. The garden in the foreground might well have been the location for the postcard photo of the Pompadour Ladies Orchestra.

Britannia Pier, Great Yarmouth, UK, circa 1911
Source: Wikipedia

The Britannia Pier is still in operation today but it has endured a difficult history. It first opened in July 1858 and was originally 700 feet long. However in 1859 the pier was reduced by about 80 feet when during a terrible storm two ships crashed into the structure. In 1868 another storm again reduced the length. The remains of the old pier were demolished in 1899 and replaced by a new 810 foot pier in 1901. The Grand Pavilion, seen above, opened on 21 June 1902. 

Britannia Pier Pavilion, Great Yarmouth
by destroyed by fire on 17 April 1914
Source: Wikipedia

Sadly this new Grand Pavilion was destroyed in a fire on 22 December 1909. A replacement pavilion was quickly constructed and completed in 1910, but this too was ravaged by an arson fire on 17 April 1914. The arsonists were two militant suffragettes, Hilda Burkitt and Florence Tunks, both of whom received prison sentences for their incendiary protest. Once again a third pavilion was hastily constructed and opened on 27 July 1914, just one day before the start of World War One.

The pier's Floral Hall Ballroom opened in May 1928 but was destroyed by fire in August 1932. The pier was closed during World War II to prevent enemy troops using the pier as a landing station and did not reopen until 1947. A new Grand Ballroom had opened in 1933, but it too was destroyed by fire in April 1954, along with the third pavilion. 

The current Britannia Pier pavilion opened on 27 June 1958 and became home to the Pavilion Theatre, now called the Britannia Pier Theatre. However the ballroom (called the Ocean Ballroom from 1947) was never replaced.




* * *




My third time-traveling musical group are seven men known as the:
Rokoko Salon-Orchester
Direktion: Fried. Bauer

The men wear clothing similar to the costumes worn by the Elite Orchester Roccoco but less flashy and with white stockings. Their wigs are also similar but with less curl. They have four string instruments, including a cello and double bass, a flute, and a piano hidden behind the two men on the right. The instrument we know today as a piano was created by Bartolomeo Cristofori in Italy in 1700. He called it a pianoforte (soft loud) later known as the fortepiano (loud soft). These first pianos were constructed of wood much like a harpsichord. But a pianoforte keyboard triggered small hammers to strike the strings with dynamics unlike the way a harpsichord keyboard flips wooden jacks which pluck the strings for a softer uniform sound. In any case I don't think this group is using a historically correct instrument but instead has a kind of upright piano of a later 19th century design.

The postcard was sent from Hannover, Germany on 8 November 1913 to someone in Bordeaux, France.    






* * *



My final costumed group is five men who called themselves the:

Farinelli-Ensemble
Sächsische Konzert un Volkssänger. 
Vielseitigstes Instrumental-, Vokal-
und Schauspiel-Ensemble der Welt

~
Farinelli Ensemble
Saxon concert and folk singers.
The world's most versatile instrumental, vocal,
and theatrical ensemble. 


The men are wearing matching long gowns, which to my eye look like women's nightgowns, and curly feminine wigs. One man holds a girl's doll which the others seem focused on.   

The group's name refers to Carlo Maria Michelangelo Nicola Broschi (1705–1782), a celebrated Italian vocalist of the 18th century who performed under the stage name Farinelli. He was a singer and composer whose castrato soprano voice had an incredible range of over three octaves. Farinelli is considered one of the greatest and most influential singers in the history of opera. 

Presumably some of the men in the Farinelli Ensemble were countertenors who specialized in a high treble style which with a standard men's voices of tenor, baritone, and bass would give their group the same quality as if they had women or boys singing. I can't explain the feminine nature of their costumes since I have no idea what kind of music or comic skits they performed. But I think it's fair to say that their era was filled with lots of rude humor and racist characterizations that we would find vulgar and hateful today.

Their postcard was sent from Bischofswerda, a small town in eastern Germany at the western edge of Upper Lusatia in Saxony, on 6 April 1903.





These ensembles were more about making music fun. Their costumes served to give them a hook for an audience that they hoped would stay longer for the music. 

It still works today and I found a great video to illustrate this story. If you went to Wien/Vienna in 2026 you might hear a concert by the Wiener Mozart Konzert which performs in beautiful period costumes. (Though their instruments are modern and not historically accurate for the music.) Technically Mozart's music is of the Classical era rather than the Rococo but he is reputed to enjoy fine clothing which was inspired by the Rococo fashions. This band sounds good even in wigs.

 




I should add that many years ago
I performed on that same stage in Wien.
I was on tour with a small American chamber orchestra,
but my costume was the standard musician's uniform
of white tie and black tailcoat.







This is my contribution to Sepia Saturday
where it's costume day for everyone.



   

nolitbx

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